Sangria is the world's most democratic beverage -- all things to all people. And it's just the thing for summer.
At its simplest, it's red, white or rosé wine with juice, fruit and water - still or sparkling. It's lower in alcohol than wine, light in body and a bit sweet.
At its most bombastic, it can also have sugar, rum, vodka, absinthe, elderflower liqueur and/or a dozen other additions that can make it powerful and alcoholic, best drunk just before a long summer's nap.
In either case, while the weather's warm, it's best served chilled, in a big pitcher jammed with ice cubes.
Sangria's finest attribute is that you, the sipper, can make it exactly what you want. It has no official recipe. Sangria's history is democratic, too, in that one person's version arguably is as authentic as another's.
Some historians say poor people in Spain during its Roman occupation, as early as 200 B.C., were cutting their wine with water for purposes of thrift and sobriety, then adding chunks of fruit to make up for the dilution.
Others say that by the 1700s, Brits and Continentals were making Claret Cup Punch of red Bordeaux wines like cabernet sauvignon with brandy and fruit added.
By the 1830s, nearly every province in Spain had its own version -- and each to this day vows its sangria is the world's finest.
America was introduced to sangria at the 1964 World's Fair in New York City, some sources say. Others find U.S. versions being served at Southern plantations in the 1930s.
Basic sangria with only wine, fruit juice, sugar and soda is low in alcohol, maybe 8 percent as opposed to about 12 percent for uncut wine. But if you add high-proof liquor or liqueurs, the result can pack a punch. I saw a sangria recipe online that called for a full bottle of wine, a half cup of brandy, a half cup of triple sec, a full bottle of vodka and 10 grapes. Well, plus some 7 Up.
Offbeat Brands is offering Slices, a low-alcohol Spanish-style sangria made of verdejo, one of Spain's top white grapes, or tempranillo, the red rioja grape plus several flavors of fruit juice.
My favorite version is a bottle of white, rosé or red wine, a half cup of brandy, a half-bottle of seltzer water plus slices of oranges, lemons and limes.
My suggestion is to Google "sangria" and choose ingredients and methods to suit your taste. As Oscar Wilde said, "Be yourself. Everyone else is already taken."
Fred Tasker is a former Miami Herald writer who writes about wine for the McClatchy News Service.